Surfing Malibu with Takeo and listening to "Hachiman"

A big south swell is hitting the beaches of Los Angeles so Takeo, and I went to surf Malibu, along with Papa Takeo who is visiting from Japan.

I've been surfing for a year now, and I'm just at the point where I can get up easily and ride most waves and I'm learning to make turns and carve the wave. Takeo has been surfing since he was 14 so he's very good, and Papa Takeo has been surfing since 1970. We had a nice session at Malibu, and I got 12 or 15 waves, but none were very long rides, as you can see in this video.

Before I started surfing I was a boogie boarder. I used to go out as a kid in Shimane, and then boogie boarded in Los Angeles when I came here. In the video below you can see some footage of me boogie boarding with youtubers ericsurf6 and hikosaemon in Shonan, Japan.






The music is by a band called "Hachiman" that just released their first album in the US. They have another great song called "Flavor of the Month" that Hikosaemon had on a video, but they had to take it off of Youtube when the album was released. Check it out on Itunes.